I don’t really mean that, of course. I have a six month old puppy that looks like a Newfoundland and even has papers saying she’s a Newfoundland. However, she doesn’t always act like my last Newfoundland puppy. Sophie is a barker, which is annoying at five in the afternoon, but totally obnoxious at five thirty in the morning.

She is also unbelievably food motivated.  If  left her entire bag of kibble out I am sure she would not stop until either it was gone or she exploded. There is also the digging – we go in the yard and can easily turn an ankle because she’s dug yet another hole.  She’s black, so when she comes in the house we don’t always realize that what we have is 90% mud and 10% dog.  It’s fine, it’s just not what I was prepared for.

It’s not that I am romanticizing my last puppy experience. She did eat a couch – an entire couch – so we had our issues. We even installed a JEWELER’S GATE – in our house – because no door would keep her confined.  But she didn’t bark or dig, so these are new behaviors for me.

Don’t misunderstand – I wouldn’t trade Sophie for any other puppy.

I just have to recognize that sometimes puppies don’t read the breed books and don’t know how they’re supposed to act.

I guess the moral of the story is this – love and appreciate the dog you’ve got – even if it will be a 120 pound beagle masquerading as a Newfoundland!

Please note this question has been edited for brevity.

I just adopted an 18 month old female Blue Heeler. She came from a home where the gentleman would confine his dogs strictly to the home, she was not allowed outdoors and therefore relieved herself inside the home. I have multiple issues that are somewhat conflicting when trying to train her. Because she has only ever known the indoors, she is very overwhelmed and fearful in an outdoor setting. So when I try to take her outside to potty, she stands right next to me and will not explore or move really. If I try to leave her side she follows. She only relieves herself maybe 1-2 times a day. She has gone potty both inside and outside, when she has gone outside, its after we have stood out there for 15-20 minutes. She just wont go! Often she just eventually lays down outside. she wont explore or sniff around or look like she might consider pottying.She is very fearful and skittish with some things, but only certain noises scare her.Anyone moving at her quickly or trying to play with her scares her and causes her to panic. I am not sure where to start with this dog, please help me!

We are so sorry to hear about your new dog’s fear issues.  From what you have described, it sounds like your dog has been very under-socialized.  Dogs have a critical learning period when they are young during which they create a “mental file” of things that are safe and good.  Dogs that are not exposed in a positive way to lots of different people, places, sights and sounds can turn into fearful adults because they don’t have much in their “mental file cabinet.”

Your dog is now trying to cope with a huge change in her environment.  Your first order of business is to develop a trusting bond with her, so try to limit the pressure you put on her to interact with you.  It is important to let her build trust by not doing anything that she might find scary, but remember that her definition of scary may be much different than yours. Things you may think of as showing affection or playing, to her may seem like terrifying advances by a potentially dangerous alien!  Let her come to you to solicit interaction.  Petting should only be done if she shows no signs of discomfort such as looking away, yawning or licking her lips and then never over the top of her head.  Gentle scratches under the chin or chest are likely to be better received.

Make sure your dog sees you as the source of all good things, particularly food!

Try having her eat her meals out of your hand, rather than putting the food in a bowl.  Teaching her to respond to some simple cues can help to build your bond as well. The Fearfuldogs.com website has great videos showing some training games for shy dogs and many other resources for helping your scaredy dog.

Also understand that since your dog hasn’t spent time in the outdoors previously, it is a scary new environment.  In addition, no one has ever taught her that outside is the proper place to go potty so when you take her outside, she has no reason to think, “Oh, now I’m supposed to go!”

First of all, we need her to enjoy outdoor time.  A couple of times a day, I would take some very high-value treats (chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc.) outside with you and feed them to her.  She doesn’t have to do anything at all but be outside and eat the treat.   If you recognize that she is starting to get stressed from being outside, take her back in.  We want her to start associating short bursts of being outside with good things happening to her. If while you are outside, she goes potty – jackpot!!  Feed her treat after treat and lots of praise (do not be too loud or exuberant or include any physical contact like petting that she might find scary).  If she goes potty inside, simply clean it up without comment and go on with life.  You want her to start realizing that the party only happens when she goes outside.  And especially at this early stage, never leave her unsupervised outside!  Newly re-homed dogs, particularly ones that are fearful, are at a high risk of running off and becoming lost.

In addition, you may want to consider some natural anxiety remedies that we have seen be effective for other dogs.

A Thundershirt can help dogs with lots of anxieties, not just thunder.  You can put it on her before you go for your outdoor visits.  It works on the same theory as swaddling a baby.  They seem to find the constant, gentle pressure to be soothing.  DAP collars contain a pheromone that mimics those released by nursing mother dogs.  Rescue Remedy is a flower essence formula that can be used to reduce stress.  You can’t hurt your dog with any of these remedies, but they may help her, especially in combination, to deal with some of the stress that she is feeling.

Finally, when dealing with a fearful dog, go slow and have patience.  Don’t push her to do things too fast.  Let her set the pace and notice the small victories.  Progress can be slow and frustrating, but it can also be extremely rewarding as you watch your scaredy dog come out of her shell.

Realizing this got me wondering, have I even “proofed” Sonar’s sitting ability?

To test her, I adapted The Original Sit Test.

The Original Sit Test was designed to magnify problems that occur during competition obedience.  But Sonar ain’t no Obedience dog, so I relaxed the test a bit.  Just 6 questions.  If you get the behavior on the first try, REWARD with treats, play, or praise.  100%.  If you have to ask twice, fantastic job—90%. And so on.

I’ll let you know how Sonar scored after you tell me how your dog scored. If 10 people put their dog to the test and comment on this blog post how it went, I might just post the video of my fetching Sonar failing doing her sit test.

On your mark, get set, GO!

1. Ask while Walking — While walking (don’t stop or slow down) on a loose leash ask your dog to “Sit”.  If your dog really knows sit, she will sit even though you are still walking.

2. Ask from a Distance— While your dog is standing ask her to “Stay”.  Then walk ten feet away, turn to face her, and then ask her to “Sit”.  If she really knows how to sit, she will sit even when she is ten yards away from you!  Repeat this with just the hand signal.

3. Ask During Recall — Ask your dog to “Sit” and “Stay” then walk about 20 feet from your dog, turn to face her, and then ask her to “Come”.  When your dog is halfway to you, ask your dog to “Sit”.  She should put on her breaks and sit immediately.  Whoa, this is a tough one!

4. Asked with Back Turned— Ask someone to hold your dog’s leash or hang the leash on a doorknob.  Then walk a few feet away, turn your back, and ask her to sit.  Reward, reward, reward!

5. Asked while Sitting— Go sit on the couch or in a chair.  Then ask your dog to “Sit”.

6. Asked while Lying Down— Ask someone to hold your dog’s leash or hang the leash on a doorknob.  Then move several feet away dog and lie down on your back.  Do not give your dog eye contact but ask for a “Sit.”  Try while on your stomach too.

Let us know how you did!

Now, are there dogs that are smarter or quicker to pick up things?  Of course there are, just as some people are smarter at certain things than other people.  However, I often find that the dogs who are labeled dumb from the get-go aren’t necessarily so.  I hate to say it, but there is a matter of a two-way street and handler error is just as possible.

The fact is that there are many things that affect learning.

These are just a few, in no particular order:

1.  Stage of development:  Is your dog a puppy, a canine adolescent or an adult dog?  (By the way, an old dog can learn new tricks, it just might take a little longer than when they were a puppy… and it might not.)

2.  Health:  A dog that has something physical or mental going on is less likely to be a quick learner because they are distracted by not feeling well, itching, bad ears, anxiety etc.

3.  Humans:  Some people have better dog communication skills than others.  Like it or not, so much of what we teach in class is for the human’s benefit.  It’s only a successful class if we are able to transfer our knowledge of dogs and the way they learn over to the humans.

4.  Genetics:  Certain breeds are meant to retrieve, some are trackers, some are ratters, some are herders, and the list goes on.  Some of the things we want them to do go against every instinct they have.  So, while, yes you can, train a terrier to walk nicely on a leash even when there’s a rodent around, it’s a much more difficult task than teaching them to, say, crawl through a tunnel.  Even if your dog doesn’t seem to have a discernible drive, they are still dogs, and dogs come up with dog things to do when they are bored, such as exploring everything with their mouth, eating poop, pulling one way when you pull the other, barking at strangers, digging in the earth… and my list can go on.  These are perfectly normal dog activities, we just don’t really like many of them in our house or garden.

So, before we go labeling our dogs dumb, it’s important to the relationship that we figure out why they might not be doing what we so desperately want them to do.

One more thing, really smart dogs aren’t always what they’re cracked up to be.  A dog who can get into every drawer in your kitchen, including the pull-out freezer, may be amazing to watch on YouTube, but you can bet that the owner of that dog is constantly wondering what Fido will figure out next.  Often a dog that sees resting on their bed chewing a bone while you watch TV a perfectly good job is less of a challenge in the everyday living department.

The main job for military dogs is sniffing out improvised explosive devices (IED’s), which are the number one killer in Afghanistan. The military has invested millions of dollars into technology trying to find a good way to detect IED’s, but nothing has been as successful as dogs and their handlers. They are also capable of finding enemies and tracking down anyone who tries to escape. They parachute from planes directly into action, rappel from helicopters, and swim when needed. They are outfitted with special gear that consists of protective body armor, oxygen masks and  infrared night-sight cameras that allow the handler to see what the dog sees up to a 1,000 yards away. The handler is able to communicate with the dog through a speaker on the vest.

When I first thought of military dogs, I thought of German Shepherds and Belgian Malinois. They are definitely the most common breeds used, but you will also find Labrador Retrievers and even Jack Russell Terriers working next to their handlers. The terriers are used in submarines for sniffing out explosives.

One of the things I find most fascinating about military dogs is the bond between dog and handler.

Military dogs are officially considered equipment by the Defense Department (there is some legislation going on in Congress trying to change that), but they are anything but equipment to their handler. Dog and handler often are together 24/7 with each other. They depend on each other for everything, even their lives.

But one of the biggest jobs, and often overlooked job, that military dogs have are not in action, but as therapy dogs. Many soldiers are suffering from stress during their deployment and even suffer from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). Dogs are now being used as therapy dogs for the men and women who suffer from this. But like humans, dogs too can suffer from PTSD. Finally last year, the military officially recognized the disorder in dogs. Just like humans, war can have devastating effects on dogs. But now the military is putting more money into finding better treatment for our 4 legged heroes.

I could go on and on about this subject. If you want to know more, I highly recommend reading “Soldier Dogs: The Untold Story of America’s Canine Heroes” by Maria Goodavage.

Next time you thank a soldier for their service, remember to thank a military dog as well.

If you feel like you want to do something more, you can always donate to The United States War Dogs Association, Inc. You can also call your senator and let them know you support the Canine Members of the Armed Forces Act, which directs the Secretary of Defense (DOD) to classify military working dogs as canine members of the Armed Forces.

How do I re-acquaint the safety and security of a crate to an 8-year-old, 4.5 pound dog? It’s been years since I’ve put her in one as she was able to get out (think hamster). I have a new crate that is solid on the sides and just has top and front openings… so she can’t get out or hurt herself trying. I am hoping you have tips on how I should get her used to it again as a safety zone. Right now when I’m not home and its storming etc, she hides in places in my closet I don’t even know how she physically got in there. I’m just trying to figure out best options of her feeling safe.

Using a crate as a “safe place” for a dog is a great idea, especially for dogs who have trouble with storms, fireworks and other generally scary events. Think of it as your dog’s happy place: everything that happens in the crate should be positive.

Here are some tips for helping your dog readjust to the crate:

• Start by leaving the crate out so your dog can venture in and out at her leisure. Put high-value treats (something your dog REALLY loves like chicken, hot dogs or cheese) in the crate whenever your dog isn’t looking and let her happen upon them. You are working to change her mind about the crate: to make it a place she will eventually seek out for comfort on her own. With some time and work, she’ll go to her safe crate instead of the corner of your closet.
• Teach your dog to “Sit” prior to going in the crate. So, put the treats in the crate, close the gate, ask the dog to sit. When she does, open the gate and let her go in and get the treats. You have just made entering the crate rewarding to her.
• Use a Kong with your dog’s favorite filling (frozen to last longer) when you leave the house to keep her busy.
• Plug in a DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) near the crate, which can help some dogs relax.
• Take baby steps. Let her get used to the crate before you enclose her in it. Vary the time she spends in the crate both when you are home and not home. Gradually, increase this amount of time.
• Create the same environment at home when you are gone as when you are there. So, leave the radio or TV on in the background and a light on when you leave.
• Only calm, relaxed behavior causes the crate door to open.

For those of us who live in areas of the world that experience snow, we can see during the winter just how many dogs have marked around the neighborhood.  Last winter, I stopped and really noticed just how much Pee Mail was on the ground.  Quite a bit in fact in the neighborhood I was walking with a dog.  No wonder he wanted to smell everything!  At that moment, I imagined it was like getting a hundred emails in your inbox that contained a lot of information in a very short and sweet message.  Some may have even seemed like love letters.  Then there was that darn cat!  And don’t even get me started on those weird looking creatures humans call raccoons.  Wait!  A squirrel!  I also detect a touch of pizza and maybe some lunch meat.  You get the idea.

Most of us know about dogs who are trained to sniff out bombs, drugs, people, cancer and just about anything else. There is also competitive nose work training, which I’ve witnessed and it looks like a ton of fun.  There is amazing research and information about how dogs depend on their noses and I think we tend to ignore just how very important it is to them.

Dogs can identify smells somewhere between 1,000 to 10,000 times better than us!

But how can we use this in our daily lives with our dogs?  As a reward, of course!  You can incorporate this into your daily training easily by asking your pooch to “go potty” or “watch me” as a stimulus goes by or whatever you are working on.  Then after the job is well done, “go sniff!”  Letting your dog take in information about its surroundings is probably pretty important to them.  This is what is referred to as a life reward and is especially useful if you have a real Sherlock Holmes on your hands.  It’s also handy if you don’t want to use too many food treats for whatever reason.  For example, a Beagle, other hound, or hound mix especially may be incredibly motivated by being allowed to sniff. Use this to your advantage as a reward for training.

Don’t dismiss the sniff; dogs really depend on their sense of smell so why not use it as a reward or enrichment?

And, if you have a very active dog, I’m pretty sure letting them smell everything after a good workout and/or training session will yield a content dog. Hopefully they’ll take a long snooze while dreaming of a squirrel running by with a lunch meat laden pizza.

I would always recommend an in-home pet sitter for clients or friends, as I think it’s generally the most comfortable place for the dog. If they can stay in their comfort zone, they are less likely to be stressed out when you leave. However, it’s still a weird concept. I mean I’ve met the parents before and of course the dog, but I don’t KNOW these people or this dog very well. They trust me with their dog, though.

From the pet sitter’s standpoint it’s a lot different than taking care of your own dog. My dog, Eddy, sleeps all day AND I have a husband who, honestly, does most of the work. Eddy mostly says hello to me when I’m home and then we snuggle on the couch. He doesn’t need much attention. The dog I’m sitting for will barely let me write this blog. She jumps on the couch so I will pet her. She sits in front of me so I will give her a treat. She bumps my leg to try to make me get up. Her nose touches the computer. Touch, looks at me. Touch, looks at me. Touch, looks at me. Dog! Do you know I’m trying to write my blog here! She could care less that I have a blog to write, she would like me to train her, feed, her play with her, and the thing is, that is totally normal. She is a young German Shepherd. Her breed needs physical and mental stimulation and a lot of it. She needs to go for a walk as soon as I’m done with this blog, and she knows it. I’m the one who needs to get my act in gear, not her.

If you are a pet sitter or hoping to be one, I would suggest that you remember that you aren’t watching your own dogs. Every dog is very different. You’ll want to remember to adjust. If you’re a client going on vacation then I would suggest hiring a dog sitter, as its truly the best thing for your dog.

All of the change in my diet got me thinking about how bored my dogs must be with their diets. They get the same thing for breakfast and dinner everyday! Ugh, that must not be fun. So, I started doing research about dog food and what “people food” I could add to improve their diets.

You probably know that too much “people food” can make your dog ill or overweight, but there are some human foods that can be safely added to your dog’s meals in moderation to give a nutritional boost.

1. Yogurt is a good source of calcium and protein. Pick one that has active bacteria (it can act like a probiotic) with no added sugar or artificial sweeteners. Frozen yogurt is a fun summer treat for your dogs
2. Flax Seed (ground or oil) it is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for their skin and coat. It is also a good source of fiber. Make sure to keep the seeds and/or the oil in the fridge in an airtight dark container, which keeps it from going bad.
3. Salmon is a fatty fish that is also a good source of omega- 3 fatty acids. These fats support the immune system and again are good for their skin and coat. There has also been some indication that they may benefit dogs with allergies, but check with your vet first. You can feed salmon or salmon oil. If feeding salmon, make sure it’s cooked before serving, as raw salmon can carry a parasite that can make your dog sick.
4. Pumpkin is a good source of fiber and vitamin A.  Fiber helps keep the GI track moving, and this helps with the lining on the intestine.  Plus, it tastes yummy!
5. Sweet Potatoes are another source of dietary fiber and contain vitamin B6, vitamin C, beta-carotene, and manganese. Sweet potatoes are great sliced and dehydrated as a chewy treat for your dog. My dogs are OBSESSED with these sweet potatoes on a rope.
6. Green Beans are a great source of plant fiber, vitamin K and C. If your dog has a tendency to put on weight, replacing some of her regular food with green beans is a great low calorie way to fill her up and help her maintain a healthy weight. Frozen green beans are so fun for your pooch.
7. Eggs are a good source of protein and selenium. Some dogs are allergic to eggs, so be careful when introducing them into their diet. They should always be cooked eggs, as raw eggs can cause biotin deficiency.
8. Apples are a fabulous crunchy treat for your dogs. My dogs go crazy for them! They are a great source of fiber and vitamin A and C. Apple seeds, however, contain cyanide so your dog should not be allowed to eat the core.

If you do a lot of training with your dog, consider taking any of these fun new “people” food treats to your next class as training treats.

We hope to see you in an AnimalSense class or private lesson in the near future.  Our Summer 1 session starts the week of June 10th, so click here to check out all the classes we have to offer!

If Bailey was a prissier dog, she would have a collection of collars. But she could care less about fashion. I have had dogs that can’t stand to go outside when it rains, dogs that won’t go near mud, etc. Well, Bailey could care less about that stuff. So I try to accessorize appropriately.

Bailey is a Westie, which is a breed originally from Scotland. So Bailey wears a pink, plaid collar. I think it says, “I’m cute, I’m Scottish, and I’m proud of it.” But the collar isn’t the only way to accessorize a dog. There are many ways to do that.

Dog accessories now include just about everything.

You can accessorize your pup with sweaters and jackets, charms for their collars, bows and barrettes, carrying cases, footwear, sports apparel, halloween costumes… well, you get the idea. There are many ways of showing off your dog’s personality and many places to shop for them. If you live in Chicago, it’s hard to walk a few blocks without walking by a pet boutique. Plus there are a ton of places online. Just Google what you are looking for and watch the pages unfold in front of you.

I am also strong believer in having dog products that fit the style of my home. I have made sure to have a dog bed that fits in with our color and vibe (and one that Bailey enjoys sleeping in), dog bowls that are both safe and attractive (I recommend stainless steel bowls because plastic bowls wear down over time and the material in the plastic can leach into your pet’s food and water), a cute toy basket that blends in, and treat jars that are stylish and look great sitting out on a counter. You no longer have to settle for boring products.

As much as I love to accessorize my dog, I also believe in safety.

I don’t put just any item on her for the sake of being fashionable. I always walk her with a harness; we actually use the Gentle Leader. I also make sure to use a stable leash. I prefer a 4-foot or 6-foot leather leash. Bailey’s safety and comfort always take precedence over any fashion statement. But I also know how to have fun and emphasize Bailey’s great personality.

How do you accessorize your dog? We at AnimalSense always love photos, so feel free to share.